Saturday, August 11, 2012
Greg -
We made the ferry Wednesday morning without incident. Before boarding, we had breakfast with our friend Rod Ryll (his real name) and then had coffee with Beth and Dee from the Forest Service.
Riding the Alaskan Marine Highway system from Juneau to Bellingham takes you through some of the most spectacular scenery in North America. The route takes you through a wide variety of channels ranging from narrow passage ways that aren't much wider than the ferry to open ocean crossings. While the ferries are spartan, they are clean, spacious, and always run on schedule. It is one of my favorite parts of this summer adventure.
It was quite a shock to the system to go from driving on an island with no traffic lights and a maximum speed limit of 45mph to navigating the packed highways around Seattle while pulling a trailer. Also amazing was the speed at which we transitioned from the cool, wet climate of Wrangell to the blistering dry heat and wheat fields of SE Washington state - it's far too hot here this summer.
We stopped in NE Oregon at a state park last night and I tried in vain this afternoon to find some USFS land on which we could camp tonight. We finally began to enter the Salt Lake area and were forced to take refuge in a Walmart parking lot after failing to secure a spot at a State Park. We've been on the road for over twelve hours of driving.
We should make it home sometime tomorrow.
I took the following shots over the past few days.
We made the ferry Wednesday morning without incident. Before boarding, we had breakfast with our friend Rod Ryll (his real name) and then had coffee with Beth and Dee from the Forest Service.
Riding the Alaskan Marine Highway system from Juneau to Bellingham takes you through some of the most spectacular scenery in North America. The route takes you through a wide variety of channels ranging from narrow passage ways that aren't much wider than the ferry to open ocean crossings. While the ferries are spartan, they are clean, spacious, and always run on schedule. It is one of my favorite parts of this summer adventure.
It was quite a shock to the system to go from driving on an island with no traffic lights and a maximum speed limit of 45mph to navigating the packed highways around Seattle while pulling a trailer. Also amazing was the speed at which we transitioned from the cool, wet climate of Wrangell to the blistering dry heat and wheat fields of SE Washington state - it's far too hot here this summer.
We stopped in NE Oregon at a state park last night and I tried in vain this afternoon to find some USFS land on which we could camp tonight. We finally began to enter the Salt Lake area and were forced to take refuge in a Walmart parking lot after failing to secure a spot at a State Park. We've been on the road for over twelve hours of driving.
We should make it home sometime tomorrow.
I took the following shots over the past few days.
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| Leaving Wrangell |
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| Friday morning from the window of our cabin |
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| Stikine Silt and Pacific Blue |
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| Home Sweet Home - Walmart in North Ogden, Utah |
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| Jack's entertainment den and me streaming the Mike Rosen show |
Tuesday, August 7, 2012
Greg -
I've had a request to talk about the prices of commodities here in Wrangell. I've paid roughly five dollars per gallon for gas all summer long - 87 octane. Milk is a slightly more precious liquid here on the island as cows tend to be eaten by bears more frequently than petroleum refinery workers - $5.50 gallon. Beer, the last of the big three, runs roughly $11.50 for a six pack. There is a COLA adjustment for USFS workers who are based in Alaska and it's needed. Cereal and produce are far more expensive than in the lower 48 and meat (other than fish) is also pricey. I experienced extreme sticker shock (in a good way) after returning from our trip last summer. I remember telling a cashier at a Walmart in Bellingham "that can't be right" when she told me the total. I am looking forward to that experience again.
I've had a request to talk about the prices of commodities here in Wrangell. I've paid roughly five dollars per gallon for gas all summer long - 87 octane. Milk is a slightly more precious liquid here on the island as cows tend to be eaten by bears more frequently than petroleum refinery workers - $5.50 gallon. Beer, the last of the big three, runs roughly $11.50 for a six pack. There is a COLA adjustment for USFS workers who are based in Alaska and it's needed. Cereal and produce are far more expensive than in the lower 48 and meat (other than fish) is also pricey. I experienced extreme sticker shock (in a good way) after returning from our trip last summer. I remember telling a cashier at a Walmart in Bellingham "that can't be right" when she told me the total. I am looking forward to that experience again.
Monday, August 6, 2012
Greg -
Jack and I saw the new Spiderman Saturday night - Jack's review will tell you everything you need to know but suffice it to say that we both give it two rain-soaked thumbs up.
Jack and I borrowed my friend Rod's boat and heading out of the Earl West landing for Berg Bay Sunday afternoon. The weather was still pretty socked in but the rain decided to take enough of a break to allow us to make it there without a shower. Berg Bay is one of my favorite spots around Wrangell as you can access it in a small boat or canoe, it's located on the mainland, and is surrounded by some of the most wild and scenic country on earth. This morning, however, Jack and I had trouble with the boat's outboard - it refused to idle and stalled repeatedly. I managed to find a tempo that the engine agreed with and we putted home at a leisurely pace of two or three miles per hour. It stalled several times en route but the weather was beautiful and it allowed us to take in the scenery at a swimmer's pace.
In anticipation of this trip, we had loaded the truck with sufficient supplies to make our rounds this morning on the way back to camp. After unloading all of our gear, we joined two of our friends on a flight over the LeConte glacier field and through the mountain range that contains it.....including a hair raising flight around the Devil's Thumb formation. It was spectacular.
We've got one more day of work before boarding the ferry Wednesday morning. I've got a chest freezer that was full of meat from Costco (the legged variety) and will be returning with it full of meat from Wrangell (the finned variety). We'll be turning in our tools and loading the freezer tomorrow afternoon and will do our final check out early Wednesday.
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| Berg Bay Cabin |
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| Jack Hauling Gear |
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| Berg Bay |
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| Berg Creek Boardwalk |
Jack and I borrowed my friend Rod's boat and heading out of the Earl West landing for Berg Bay Sunday afternoon. The weather was still pretty socked in but the rain decided to take enough of a break to allow us to make it there without a shower. Berg Bay is one of my favorite spots around Wrangell as you can access it in a small boat or canoe, it's located on the mainland, and is surrounded by some of the most wild and scenic country on earth. This morning, however, Jack and I had trouble with the boat's outboard - it refused to idle and stalled repeatedly. I managed to find a tempo that the engine agreed with and we putted home at a leisurely pace of two or three miles per hour. It stalled several times en route but the weather was beautiful and it allowed us to take in the scenery at a swimmer's pace.
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| Shakes Glacier |
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| Grass Flats on the Stikine Delta |
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| LaConte Ice Field |
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| Wrangell
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Saturday, August 4, 2012
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| The view from our site early this morning |
Greg -
The potluck was well attended last night although the rain did its best to damper enthusiasm. It has rained steadily now for about five days straight and continued well into last night. The one effect that it did have was to stop any individual with a kid from attending. There wasn't a single person under 13 and the average age hovered around 50. After conferring with Corey, the Forest Service interpreter, we decided that he should make an appearance anyway. Smokey stayed for about thirty minutes ate a few cookies and posed for pictures.
This morning, I spent several hours clearing brush from the Anita Bay overlook area. It was inaccessible due to road work until only recently and was badly in need of some TLC. I also spent some time repairing gunshot wounds to the outhouse. Jack and I then spent the remainder of the day making our rounds to the various rec sites.
Jack and I are anxiously awaiting the playing of the latest Spider Man movie at the Nolan Center tonight - - - - an original Jack Carver movie review will soon follow.
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| Home - the odd angles are a result of the camera's image stitching software |
Thursday, August 2, 2012
Greg -
Jack and I have less than a week to go before we have to leave Wrangell. I'm borrowing a boat from my friend Rod this weekend. Jack and I will be taking it down the Blake Channel to camp overnight at the USFS cabin located on Berg Bay. We had intended to stay at the Garnet Ledge cabin but have heard that the channel along the bank of the Stikine is no longer dependable. Since I'd rather spend the night in a cabin rather than pushing a boat off of a sand bar, Berg Bay wins as the destination. Berg Bay is a small inlet located on the mainland across the Blake Channel. Bears love the site for its salmon run and tidal grass flats. Humans love it for its remote setting and incredible scenery. It will be our last hurrah of the summer as our ferry leaves Wrangell on the 8th. It's hard to believe that the summer is coming to a close.
Jack and I have less than a week to go before we have to leave Wrangell. I'm borrowing a boat from my friend Rod this weekend. Jack and I will be taking it down the Blake Channel to camp overnight at the USFS cabin located on Berg Bay. We had intended to stay at the Garnet Ledge cabin but have heard that the channel along the bank of the Stikine is no longer dependable. Since I'd rather spend the night in a cabin rather than pushing a boat off of a sand bar, Berg Bay wins as the destination. Berg Bay is a small inlet located on the mainland across the Blake Channel. Bears love the site for its salmon run and tidal grass flats. Humans love it for its remote setting and incredible scenery. It will be our last hurrah of the summer as our ferry leaves Wrangell on the 8th. It's hard to believe that the summer is coming to a close.
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| Last night's sunset |
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| Looking toward Wrangell from Nemo Point |
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| Guest Chef Jack (or is it Jaques?) and his Asian Night Feast |
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| Nemo Loop Road - our site is just around the bend at the bottom of the hill |
Greg-
It's our Sunday today. Like yesterday, we've got to stop at the WRD (Wrangell Ranger District) office, library, and the store. We did laundry and hit the pool yesterday. I ran for about an hour and then joined Jack in the pool for a swim lesson - my freestyle needs work. It turns out that it's not just my freestyle that needs work. Jack put me through a few brutal drills that left me with a new appreciation for just how difficult swimming is. If I can just get to the point where I can breath without lifting my head completely out of the water, I'll feel like I've accomplished something.
I also met with the district ranger to discuss my proposal for enhancing views around the island. We came up with several areas of focus which will be placed into the forest management plan in the coming year.
Jack and I grilled a pork loin, had a campfire, and then watched "Rabbit Proof Fence" on the computer. The sun managed to poke its way through the clouds for about twenty minutes last night - just in time for a spectacular sunset.
Tomorrow's potluck includes a celebration of Smokey's birthday. I'll be playing the part of Smokey should the real bear not be able to make it.
It's our Sunday today. Like yesterday, we've got to stop at the WRD (Wrangell Ranger District) office, library, and the store. We did laundry and hit the pool yesterday. I ran for about an hour and then joined Jack in the pool for a swim lesson - my freestyle needs work. It turns out that it's not just my freestyle that needs work. Jack put me through a few brutal drills that left me with a new appreciation for just how difficult swimming is. If I can just get to the point where I can breath without lifting my head completely out of the water, I'll feel like I've accomplished something.
I also met with the district ranger to discuss my proposal for enhancing views around the island. We came up with several areas of focus which will be placed into the forest management plan in the coming year.
Jack and I grilled a pork loin, had a campfire, and then watched "Rabbit Proof Fence" on the computer. The sun managed to poke its way through the clouds for about twenty minutes last night - just in time for a spectacular sunset.
Tomorrow's potluck includes a celebration of Smokey's birthday. I'll be playing the part of Smokey should the real bear not be able to make it.
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
Greg -
I've read Jack's list and I have to say that I agree with many of his points. I should also mention that the microwave functions perfectly and never sparks - it's the generator that has trouble keeping up with the initial start-up and occasionally trips its overload breaker.
Speaking of nuisances that I could do without, I should probably mention the bugs at our site and around the island of Wrangell. My arms are covered in bites from biting midges or no-see-ums which are come out in droves under a steady drizzle. They are present even if it's not drizzling but not nearly in the numbers that precipitation brings. They are experts avoiding detection until they bite, which for their size, is sharp. They are, far and away, the most annoying insect on Wrangell island. When we arrived, I was surprised at the lack of mosquitoes. While they are still present at our site, we normally only see a few each night - maybe they can't take the no-see-ums either. Black flies are also a pest around the island and are far more common than mosquitoes. They are also known as white socks as the ends of their legs are white. They are insistent at flying around your eyes, mouth, and nose and don't seem to be bothered by swatting hands. I should also mention that our what we experience at our site does not represent the conditions in other areas. We are, fortunately, relatively far removed from any muskeg which is ideal mosquito habitat. The rec crew has many stories about being marauded by hoardes of them during their week-long trips up the Stikine. I miss the relatively bug-free confines of Colorado.
I've read Jack's list and I have to say that I agree with many of his points. I should also mention that the microwave functions perfectly and never sparks - it's the generator that has trouble keeping up with the initial start-up and occasionally trips its overload breaker.
Speaking of nuisances that I could do without, I should probably mention the bugs at our site and around the island of Wrangell. My arms are covered in bites from biting midges or no-see-ums which are come out in droves under a steady drizzle. They are present even if it's not drizzling but not nearly in the numbers that precipitation brings. They are experts avoiding detection until they bite, which for their size, is sharp. They are, far and away, the most annoying insect on Wrangell island. When we arrived, I was surprised at the lack of mosquitoes. While they are still present at our site, we normally only see a few each night - maybe they can't take the no-see-ums either. Black flies are also a pest around the island and are far more common than mosquitoes. They are also known as white socks as the ends of their legs are white. They are insistent at flying around your eyes, mouth, and nose and don't seem to be bothered by swatting hands. I should also mention that our what we experience at our site does not represent the conditions in other areas. We are, fortunately, relatively far removed from any muskeg which is ideal mosquito habitat. The rec crew has many stories about being marauded by hoardes of them during their week-long trips up the Stikine. I miss the relatively bug-free confines of Colorado.
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| Our mold farm |
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| Muskeg along Thom's Creek Road |
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| Sitka Spruce at a clearcut along the Nemo Loop |
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
Jack-
Here is my list of the top 101 things I miss about Colorado (not necessarily in this order):
Here is my list of the top 101 things I miss about Colorado (not necessarily in this order):
- Mom
- My family
- Joy
- Privacy
- My friends
- High speed internet
- Our house
- Our hot tub
- A real bed
- Television
- Running water
- Electricity on demand
- Warm water
- Sprite (my fish)
- Having more than one room in a house
- Dry air
- Sunshine
- Sunsets
- Bowling
- The darkness of night that lasts longer than two hours.
- Happiness (just kidding) .... Mrs. Holt and her dog Panda
- Woodies Pizza
- Denver
- The Denver Museum of Nature and Science
- The Tattered Cover bookstore
- 16th Street Mall
- Big box stores like Walmart, Target, and Safeway
- The rocks near our house
- Foxes
- Elk
- Red Rocks Amphitheater
- Bluebirds
- Hummingbirds
- The horses on Jackpine
- Alderfer/3-Sisters Park
- Johns Manville Plaza
- Light Rail
- The Denver Center for the Performing Arts
- Blue Sky
- The smell after rain (something we don't smell here because it's always raining)
- Being far from the ocean
- Being safe from Brown Bear maulings
- Not having to carry a gun when hiking
- Not having to carry military grade bear spray when walking to an outhouse
- A heater that my father isn't stingy about
- Not having a job
- Not having to socialize with strangers that pull up to your house
- Not having a house with the name "Dimples"
- Not having to dump grey water every few days
- My swim team
- Our Turkish rug
- The dartboard
- The piano
- The pool table
- The foosball table
- The climbing wall
- Our own shower
- Plumbing
- A Dishwasher
- Cotton towels
- A microwave that doesn't shoot sparks every time you use it
- Not grilling every night of the week
- Being able to see the stars
- Being able to see the moon
- Not having to wear boots every day
- The mountains
- The foothills
- The plains
- Evergreen Lake
- The Lakehouse
- Ice skating
- Skiing
- Sledding
- Netflix
- Anonymity
- The lack of biting bugs
- Bathtub
- Not having to haul water
- Costco
- REI
- The Apple Store
- Being able to sleep in
- More clothes to choose from
- Pizza
- Having a wider variety of food
- Knowing about world events
- Not having to go to the library for internet
- Restaurants other than the Stikine Inn and the Diamond C
- Haircuts
- Highways
- Not being surrounded by ocean
- Not having to host potlucks every Friday
- Golden
- The Boulder Tea House
- Starbucks
- Chicken Tikka
- Having an oven and baking with it
- Having something to do
- Dying grass
- Thunder and lightening
- Our fireplace and woodstove
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| Gillnetters on Zimovia Strait |
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| Gillnetters on Zimovia Strait |
Monday, July 30, 2012
Greg -
Yesterday was cool and rainy - absolutely perfect running weather. Jack and I arrived about fifteen minutes before the start. I'd estimate that there were roughly five people running the full marathon and maybe ten to fifteen running the half marathon. The remaining twenty ran the 5K, Jack being one of them.
Jack's final time was 34:35 for the 5K - not bad considering that he's only run farther than a mile three times in his life. The marathon course included a two mile trail section that wound its way through the rain forest at the south end of town. I'd heard about the trail before but had never hiked it - it was spectacular. My shins gave me no problem whatsoever and I felt great throughout the race. One of the timber crew members was also running the half. The rest of the crew was there to cheer us on and would drive from viewpoint to viewpoint to cheer us on again throughout the race. They were also at the finish and rewarded us with my favorite carb source......a cold beer. The race organizers then shuttled the runners back to town. Jack and I then showered at the bunkhouse and headed back onto the road for a full day of work.
It's rained quite a bit over the last few days and it continues to fall this morning. Today, Jack and I drove down to the far end of the island. I love this trip as it passes through some of the most remote country on the island. On the way, we encountered a black bear who was walking toward us on the road. We stopped and turned off the engine and watched him slowly meander toward us. He was about fifty yards from the truck when we caught his eye - he stopped, stood up on his hind legs to get a better view, and then shot off into the brush. On our return trip, I almost ran into a bull moose standing in the middle of the road. I scrambled to get my camera and was able to get the picture pasted below. We've been lucky with our moose sightings - many of the potluck attendees have seen only a few moose on the island.
Only one more week in Wrangell - it's hard to believe that our time here has nearly come to an end.
Yesterday was cool and rainy - absolutely perfect running weather. Jack and I arrived about fifteen minutes before the start. I'd estimate that there were roughly five people running the full marathon and maybe ten to fifteen running the half marathon. The remaining twenty ran the 5K, Jack being one of them.
Jack's final time was 34:35 for the 5K - not bad considering that he's only run farther than a mile three times in his life. The marathon course included a two mile trail section that wound its way through the rain forest at the south end of town. I'd heard about the trail before but had never hiked it - it was spectacular. My shins gave me no problem whatsoever and I felt great throughout the race. One of the timber crew members was also running the half. The rest of the crew was there to cheer us on and would drive from viewpoint to viewpoint to cheer us on again throughout the race. They were also at the finish and rewarded us with my favorite carb source......a cold beer. The race organizers then shuttled the runners back to town. Jack and I then showered at the bunkhouse and headed back onto the road for a full day of work.
It's rained quite a bit over the last few days and it continues to fall this morning. Today, Jack and I drove down to the far end of the island. I love this trip as it passes through some of the most remote country on the island. On the way, we encountered a black bear who was walking toward us on the road. We stopped and turned off the engine and watched him slowly meander toward us. He was about fifty yards from the truck when we caught his eye - he stopped, stood up on his hind legs to get a better view, and then shot off into the brush. On our return trip, I almost ran into a bull moose standing in the middle of the road. I scrambled to get my camera and was able to get the picture pasted below. We've been lucky with our moose sightings - many of the potluck attendees have seen only a few moose on the island.
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